Surfing in the sun

July 10, 2007

Another evening surfing, this time in the sun.  Really beautiful day with the most beautiful sunset into the mountains. Alone on the beach and swimming in the warm Pacific Ocean (21 degrees now) I was overwhelmed by nostalgia for my soon to be lost Japan.

It is an amazing country.

No pictures again (makes blogging pretty boring) so here are some from Seacliffe Beach in Scotland (wikipedia) which will soon be my local surf beach.

copyright Edinburgh Kayak Club

The people surfing are members of the Edinburgh Kayak Club which will soon be my local club – I’m thinking of joining… You can see more pictures of their trip to Seacliffe beach in this gallery.

My surfing was ok. The sea was almost totally flat and the waves small but as usual the sand bar at Oku Matsushima pops up some nice little waves  perfect for a beginner like me. I guess 1-2 feet.

My only noteable event was getting cartwheeled when stationary and an unusually big wave suddenly reared up, I was hoping to hold on with a big high brace and leaning right back to the rear deck but as the front of my kayak disappeared down into the water my spray skirt popped a bit as the wave landed on me and water rushed in sinking the front and ending any hopes of saving it – I went over backwards and failed to roll.

Pretty exciting in an 8 foot river kayak in small surf wonder what it would be like in a 16foot sea kayak in huge storm surf?

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